Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Wednesday July 15, 2009. Day 27

I was out by 10:00. Wasn’t sure whether breakfast was included in the price but I couldn't care less. I went straight to the market for the “muzn8pa” pies that I had tried yesterday and had gone crazy about. I had a couple of those and then walked around the Suq (market) and took lots of photos.




I may be a romantic but the scenes I saw brought Albert Camus’ the “Stranger” or even more so “Happy Death” to mind. Peddlers and shopkeepers were advertising their merchandize, people were strolling talking to one another looking at the merchandize and inspecting it, others were haggling, and yet others were buying. Regardind their driving tradition, the Syrians are very different from the Turks, who are very responsible drivers. Syrian driving resembles what one might call controlled chaos.

After an hour and a half of walking around I returned to the hotel packed up and went to the lobby where I met Sofhuan at 12:00. We headed for the market, stopped at the store of another guy who had also lived in Greece for two years . After that stopped at Mohamet’s store had coffee and a cigarette. Next rushed to the hotel where I picked the bike and the stuff and headed for the bus depot. We were there in time. My ticket was for the 13:00 bus. To my surprise the bus had left earlier. Sofhuan told me not to worry and took care of the situation with the help of his cousin that worked there. They issued a ticket for the next bus. Finally, after saying goodbye to Sofhuan left at 14:00. for Damascus (known as Shaa.)

In the mind of some the site readers, the previous paragraph may evoke the words HIGH TREASON. In a way you may be right but there is always an explanation. I had made a commitment to my friend Eli who lives in Tel Aviv to visit him and I made that promise under the constraint that he will be going to Laos on July 23. No matter how I sliced it or diced it, I couldn’t make it there in time unless I seeked means other than the bike. So, I decided to take the bus for part of the itinerary. That is, until Amman Jordan, from where I will continue by bike to Jerusalem and then to Tel Aviv. However, I admit that an uncovered check has been issued and something must be done about it. My promise is to return and do the distances I covered by bus next time, before the right to continue to Egypt is granted to me again.

I noticed that the way till Homs, the trip’s midpoint, was mostly downhill. After Homs where we stopped for about 20 mins the landscape turned desertlike and the wind was very strong.

We arrived at Damascus at 18:30. A very aggressive cabdriver grabbed my bike and wouldn’t let go. I was about to punch him. Finally I negotiated a “descent” fare for the center which. Descent meaning below tourist prices but well above prices charged to locals. At the center there are plenty of reasonably priced hotels, as I realized later. In my case, without any market research I went to the hotel at whose door the cab left me. It was dirt cheap, but also a real dump. There is no way I would have stayed there, if I were traveling with a girlfriend or wife. Still, it was perfect for me.

This was my room
After showering I went out to visit the city and to forage. Damascus is not an attractive city and everything seems to be run down. I walked around looking at the everyday things which for me were new and entertaining. I noticed that driving in Damascus was worse than Idlib and the use of horn had increased.




Mini bus heaven

Finally, I discovered the “Suq” (market) which was an interior market about 1.5 kms. It was huge and very beautiful. Even though it was after 21:00 the crowd was thick.
The suq led to the Islamic Center. There was a mosque of unique architectural beauty. Its yard was exquisite and so was its interior.

PHOTOS OF DAMASCUS mosque




After that I walked back to the Suq

and then headed home.

I spent a horrible night. I had to get up up at least ten times and head for the toilet. I guess everybody is vulnerable at that part of the world.

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